Tangy baked rhubarb compote flavored with spruce tips or fresh basil is heavenly served over a delicate Swedish Cream panna cotta. (Skip to recipe.)
Here’s a recipe I’ve been working on: rhubarb and spruce tips with a splash of white wine, natural cane sugar, and a knob of butter, all baked until the rhubarb is meltingly soft and vividly tart. It makes an incredibly easy dessert — or breakfast, snack, or late-night treat. If you prefer, substitute fresh chopped basil for the spruce tips for a different but equally addictive flavor.
I’m still enjoying spruce tips while they’re at their peak. Even when the tightly closed tips begin to unfurl into soft, feathery fronds, they remain pleasantly citrusy when chewed and work well in cooking. Store them in a sealed bag or container in the refrigerator, or try freezing a batch to use later.
If your spruce tip season is over, I highly recommend using basil instead.
My rhubarb has once again exploded into giant leaves and towering stalks. Harvesting it feels a little theatrical—one decisive chop with a knife and the stalks tumble into the basket—yet the result is simple, comforting food.
The finished compote is both rustic and refined: ideal for spooning straight from a bowl in front of the TV, or for serving to guests after a relaxed dinner. The combination of wine with either spruce tips or basil melds into a subtle flavor that enhances and softens the rhubarb’s tartness. You taste the rhubarb and then wonder what that intriguing secondary note might be, and before you know it you’ve taken another spoonful.
We’ve enjoyed this baked rhubarb compote warm over vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt. Later I discovered Swedish Cream in a cookbook, and it proved to be the perfect delicate foil for the tart compote. Swedish Cream is essentially a panna cotta made with buttermilk, creating a softly quivering, silky mound that looks beautiful surrounded by syrupy pink rhubarb.
Even skeptics of buttermilk have given this a thumbs-up; the dairy notes are subtle and creamy, complementing the rhubarb without dominating it.
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Kitchen Note: Any dry white wine works in the baked rhubarb. The recipe scales down easily — for half the amount, use a 9″x9″ pan and halve the spruce tips or basil. Leftovers keep in the refrigerator; the butter will firm up, so gently reheat the compote on the stovetop or in the microwave until just lukewarm before serving. The butter prevents the top layer from drying out during baking and helps create a glossy finish.
This compote is also lovely as a warm breakfast or brunch side, spooned over pancakes or yogurt.
Spruce Tip (or Basil) Baked Rhubarb Compote
- 2 lbs (900 g) rhubarb, cut into 1″ pieces (about 7–8 cups)
- 1½ cups (150 g) natural cane sugar
- 1 cup (240 ml) white wine
- ¼ cup (60 ml) chopped spruce tips or basil
- 2 tablespoons (30 ml) butter
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Use a 9″x13″ glass, enamel, or stainless steel baking dish — avoid aluminum or reactive metals that can discolor the rhubarb and affect flavor.
Chop the rhubarb into 1″ pieces and place in the baking pan. Add the sugar, white wine, and the chopped spruce tips or basil. Stir gently to distribute the sugar evenly. Dot the top with butter and place the pan in the preheated oven.
Bake for 1 hour, stirring gently after about 15 minutes to distribute the melted butter without breaking up the rhubarb. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly in the pan.
Serve warm over vanilla ice cream, frozen yogurt, or the Swedish Cream made ahead.
Swedish Cream
Adapted from Seasonal Fruit Desserts by Deborah Madison
- 1 cup (240 ml) whipping cream or half-and-half
- ¼ cup (60 ml) honey
- ¼ cup (60 ml) water
- ¼ oz (7 g) unflavored gelatin powder (about 2½ teaspoons)
- 2 cups (480 ml) buttermilk or plain yogurt
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
Lightly oil the insides of six small (¾-cup) custard cups or dessert bowls.
Heat the cream and honey in a saucepan over medium heat until just boiling. Remove from heat. Meanwhile, sprinkle the gelatin over the water and let it soften for 5 minutes.
Stir the softened gelatin into the hot cream and honey until fully dissolved. Mix in the buttermilk and vanilla, then pour into the prepared cups. Refrigerate until set, about 3–4 hours or overnight.
To unmold, dip each cup into hot water for 15–30 seconds until the edges loosen, then invert onto a plate. Spoon the rhubarb compote around the quivering Swedish Cream. Alternatively, leave the cream in its dishes and top with compote.
Guten Appetit!
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Rhubarb and Spruce Tip Galette
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